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Exploring Gay Philadelphia
This guide is not a walking tour in the strictest sense, but a series of suggestions for a fabulous day, evening or weekend here
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Love Park
Photo by B. Krist for GPTMC
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Location:
Center City Philadelphia: Rittenhouse Square, Old City, Bella Vista and beyond
Transportation:
On foot or in a taxi
Duration:
As long as you'd like to make it last!
Over the past few decades, the City of Brotherly Love has evolved into a place that lives up to its gay-friendly billing. Philadelphia has history on its side: It was the site of some of the nation’s first gay rights pickets at Independence Hall a few years before the landmark 1969 Stonewall Riots, and in 1982 was one of the first cities in the country to pass an anti-gay discrimination law. Today, the city is home to a large and vibrant gay and lesbian community.
At the heart of gay Philadelphia is Center City’s Washington Square West, a neighborhood of handsome town homes and charming, narrow back streets where many gay businesses and much of the night life is located. What’s more, all of Center City is considered gay- and lesbian-friendly, although it’s wise to be safety-conscious if you step out in some of the other neighborhoods.
This guide is not a walking tour in the strictest sense, but a series of suggestions for a fabulous day, evening or weekend here.
Part 1- Sweat and Shop
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Millenium Coffee House
Photo by R. Kennedy for GPTMC
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In the morning, pick yourself up with a workout at the gay community’s favorite health club, 12th Street Gym, where the equipment is as well-kept as the members are buff. Amenities include a weight-training circuit, cardio machines, pool, steam room, sauna, a multitude of classes and the cruisiest sun deck this side of Provincetown.
After your workout, take a skip over to 11th and Walnut and consider your plans for the rest of the day at Joe's Coffee, the local's favorite spot for caffeine reload. Sip on a delicious latte, nibble on scones, or simply feast in the pleasure of prime people-watching.
If you need to rest those gym-weary arms, grab a pastry or a sandwich from Metropolitan Bakery and head to the nearby Louis I. Kahn Park, an urban oasis complete with benches and tables and a gurgling fountain.
Be sure to stop by the gay-owned Matthew Izzo on Walnut Street: The New York City transplant stocks his own line of jewelry, modern furniture and chic home accessories, as well as works by contemporary artists Thomas Parker Williams, Jen Petreshock and Leemour Pelli.
Head south on 12th Street to Giovanni’s Room, one of the nation’s oldest and best gay, lesbian and feminist bookstores. The extremely varied selection of fiction, non-fiction, compact discs, tapes and magazines is displayed in a series of cozy rooms in two adjoining townhouses.
From here, stroll east on Pine along Antiques Row (between 9th and 12th Streets), where you’ll find a wealth of stores featuring antiques and collectibles, as well as funky jewelry, contemporary art and home goods. Noteworthy stops along Antiques Row include Twist, which carries new and vintage furniture and accessories, and the cool modern style of the Seraphin Gallery.
If it’s time for lunch, grab a table by the French doors of Mixto, and enjoy a late breakfast or lunch, Latino style. A few blocks away on the 1100 block of Locust, you’ll find the always reliable More Than Just Ice Cream, which serves fantastic burgers, salads and gourmet sandwiches.
After lunch, shop ‘til you drop types will want to check out the furniture and home items at gay-owned Urban Decor, before heading over to the Midtown Village section of Wash West’s 13th Street, between Sansom and Chestnut.
Here, you’ll find hip menswear at gay-owned Sparacino; a second store from Matthew Izzo stocking men’s shoes, clothing and accessories; and more great housewares and furniture at the lesbian-owned Open House. Top off your continuing shopping adventure with luscious homemade gelato or a decadent pastry from Capogiro.
And don’t forget Rittenhouse Row, a shopping district on Walnut Street, from Broad to 20th streets, which is the site of some of the city’s finest retail and cutest boutiques.
Part 2- Soak up the History
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The Liberty Bell Center
Photo by R. Kennedy for GPTMC
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Culture mavens will want to take in the current exhibit at the Philadelphia Art Alliance, or spend several hours exploring another of the city’s treasures, the Rosenbach Museum and Library. This museum, housed in a pair of stately townhouses, features the original manuscripts of James Joyce’s “Ulysses” and Lewis Carroll’s “Alice in Wonderland,” as well as letters exchanged between lesbian writer Mercedes de Acosta and Hollywood legend Greta Garbo.
There is plenty more gay culture and history to soak up. For the latest on contemporary gay life, head to the William Way Lesbian Gay Bisexual Transgender Community Center at 1315 Spruce Street. The sprawling building, graced by a colorful mural on its west wall, usually features an art exhibit in the lobby, and has an extensive research library. The center also offers resources on events, entertainment and night life, and a range of clubs and organizations regularly meet here.
The William Way Center represents how far the community has come in the past 30 years since Stonewall. Independence Hall, where a bunch of bewigged rebels made news in 1776 with the Declaration of Independence, stands as a reminder of the pre-Stonewall days of the gay rights movement.
It was here on July 4, 1965 that a group of activists from around the country all in their Sunday best (a dress code was enforced to make a good impression on the straight public) first demonstrated for gay and lesbian rights. After the Stonewall riots of 1969, the national march moved to New York.
Across Chestnut Street is the Liberty Bell Center, which provides a more contemplative experience to view this enduring symbol of freedom.
The Liberty Bell’s new home is part of a dramatic $314 million transformation of Independence National Historical Park. Another key component is the National Constitution Center, a major new museum celebrating the U.S. Constitution through interactive, multimedia exhibits. The Constitution Center’s inclusive content notes the document’s impact on the rights of gays and lesbians and other minorities.
Part 3- Eat, Drink, and Be Merry
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EL Vez
Photo courtesy of Starr Restaurant Organization
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Some of the most popular dinner favorites include the jewel-box sized Mercato, ; More Than Just Ice Cream, a casual Wash West favorite that offers much more than its signature rich desserts; Valanni, whose sleek dining room and happening bar provide a stylish setting for imaginative Mediterranean cuisine; and the Venture Inn, a favorite of older gay men for its steaks and traditional fare.
Two Mexican restaurants on 13th Street are adding new flavor to the neighborhood: El Vez, from hip restaurateur Stephen Starr, and the BYOB-Lolita, from Open House partners Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran. Afterwards, it’s time for night life, and Philadelphia has a bar for every taste.
For hanging out: The Westbury, sort of a Cheers for the gay set; Uncles, which caters to a 40-plus crowd; and Woody’s, Philadelphia’s largest and best known bar, are the top picks.
For dancing: Shampoo, with drag queens, go-go boys and the latest club music, is gay on Friday nights only, while 12th Air Command and Woody’s offer dancing almost every night; the Two-Four Club is also a popular dance palace, although it requires a membership fee.
For piano music: Tavern on Camac offers the traditional piano bar, with a sing-along on the first floor, and an intimate cabaret featuring on the second, while the Inn Philadelphia features a more sedate ambience with a pianist-singer in its first floor bar.
For leather: The Bike Stop is the hq for leather types and the men (and women) who love them.
For women: The aptly named Sisters offers a little of everything for the club-going lesbian: a restaurant, bar and second floor dance area.
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